The Best Meal of My Life Wasn’t in New York or Tokyo — It Was in the Forests of Dalarna, Sweden
I’ve dined in Michelin-starred restaurants and trendy foodie spots around the world, but nothing prepared me for this hidden gem in Sweden’s wilderness...
This post is a little different from my usual travel tips and itineraries. Dalarna left such an impression on me that I felt compelled to write about it in a more personal, reflective way…the kind of piece that captures how a place makes you feel, not just what to pack….
I came to Dalarna for the winter activities: the dog sledding, the skiing, the ice fishing, the endless white wilderness. I didn’t expect one of the best culinary experiences of my life.
But there I was, at a small restaurant tucked into the forested hills of Sälen, tasting a non-alcoholic drink made from locally foraged ingredients that paired so perfectly with my reindeer tartar, it stopped me in my tracks. This was Frö, and what followed — a multi-course, deeply seasonal, nature-inspired tasting menu — was hands-down the most mind-blowing meal I’ve ever had. And I had just dined at Alinea.
At Frö, the chefs use preservation techniques that would make any Michelin kitchen proud: koji-fermented roots, salt-cured fish, house-brewed kombucha, and infusions made from mushrooms, leaves, and herbs foraged from the surrounding landscape.
When I visited in March, winter still blanketed the landscape, but spring was just arriving, and the first wild ramson of the season from Skåne made a delicate, fresh appearance. The presentation was refined, the flavors were intense and surprising, yet… I was in jeans and an oversized sweater, sipping a handcrafted non-alcoholic cocktail by the fire in what felt more like a friend’s cozy cabin than a fine dining temple.
Two dishes stood out most: a roast pork from Forsa farm, slow-cooked overnight and served with pickled rhubarb, crispy pork skin, wild rosemary oil picked in Mora, and a browned butter foam — unlike anything I’d ever tasted. Then there was the ice cream of koji and woodruff from their garden, paired with frozen and fermented blueberries, deep-fried lichen, and a warm caramel infused with cep mushrooms. I’ll be thinking about that dish for the rest of my life.
And that’s the magic of Dalarna: the food is exceptional, but the vibe is soul-soothing. It’s not just Frö; nearly every meal I had in this region was rooted in place and prepared with intention. Whether I was savoring fresh game dishes or eating Toast Skagen after a morning on the slopes, the food here never felt like a performance. It felt like a celebration of the landscape, of the people, of the season.
At Restaurant Elgen, inside the wood-paneled walls of a mountain lodge that’s been welcoming guests for generations, I sat in a cozy yet elegant dining room and ate elk carpaccio so fresh and vibrant it felt like a love letter to the forest itself. The woman pouring my cider told me the neighbor had hunted the elk. It struck me how different that feels from name-dropping farms on a big-city menu. This wasn’t marketing. It was community.
Another day, after snowshoeing through a frosted mountainside trail, I joined a small group around a fire pit to enjoy my first Swedish Fika experience. There was no restaurant sign, no reservation list; just a guide from Explore Sälen who pulled fresh bread from a backpack, local preserves, tasty cured game sausage, and stories about the landscape that made the simple food taste extraordinary.
Even places I might’ve dismissed as casual — a ski lodge, a slope-side café — served meals with a kind of understated care. A steaming plate of reindeer stroganoff, rich and creamy, offset by the tart pop of lingonberries. Toast Skagen piled high, just the right balance of brine and cream, eaten with wind-burned cheeks.
Nothing felt overly curated or self-serious. And yet everything felt deeply considered.
Dalarna doesn’t shout about its food scene. It doesn’t need to. It’s in the way a meal is offered with pride. The way the flavors mirror the landscape. The way you leave a table not just full, but filled with warmth, with connection, with an appreciation for a place that understands that food isn’t just nourishment. It’s memory. It’s identity. It’s home.
Dalarna Dining Guide: From Ski-In Cafés to Forest Feasts
You could spend your whole trip skiing, hiking, and wandering through the forests of Dalarna… and still come home thinking mostly about the meals. Here’s where to find some of the region’s most memorable bites. (All places I’ve personally dined at.)
Frö – Flora & Fauna of Dalarna
This was by far one of the most remarkable tasting menus I’ve ever experienced. Set in a warm, rustic space, Frö offers a set menu of around eight seasonal courses. When I visited in March, they were just starting to transition into spring. Think: dry-aged arctic char tartlet with potato miso and spruce shoots, a tartar and heart of reindeer. It was beautifully plated and perfectly balanced.
The non-alcoholic pairings—made in-house using local berries, fruit, mushrooms, leaves, and branches—were as complex and thoughtful as wine pairings. Frö reflects the forest, the meadows, and the wildflowers of Sälen and Lima in every bite.
Frö isn’t open year-round. They take a short break in early summer before reopening with a fresh seasonal tasting menu. Be sure to check their website and book a reservation in advance of your trip. At about 1,400 SEK (around €130 / £110 / $145), the tasting menu is, in my opinion, a steal for the quality and creativity on offer.
Restaurant Elgen at Olarsgården Hotel
There’s something nostalgic and charming about dining in a hotel that’s been serving guests since 1946. At Restaurant Elgen, the menu draws inspiration from Swedish tradition and the ingredients found in the nearby mountains. I had the signature vegetarian raggmunk (a kind of potato pancake, pictured above) and a wild elk carpaccio—elk that had literally just been butchered by the neighbor before we arrived! It was paired with a local non-alcoholic cider and was so fresh and flavorful.
Gastronomy Walk in Sälen (with Explore Sälen)
This wasn’t your typical hike. This was a full-on culinary adventure through the snowy landscape of Sälen, all while on snowshoes. Guided by a local who shared stories of the mountains and the region’s rich culture, we stopped at small huts and scenic lookouts for tastes of locally made bread, cheeses, sausages, and drinks—all from Dalarna. Each product was introduced with heart, storytelling, and a connection to the region that made the flavors even more meaningful.
Restaurant Winter
Restaurant Winter describes itself as “a restaurant for everyone who enjoys food, gatherings, people, and above all, having a great time.” I couldn’t agree more. I started with their “Toast Winter,” a mix of crayfish tails and shrimp topped with Kalix caviar. It was followed by a venison fillet (Deer Rydberg Winter Style, pictured above) that completely stunned me. I’m from a deer-hunting community and have had more than my share of venison, but this was on another level. It was tender enough to cut with a butter knife, and not even a hint of gaminess.
Bonus points: This restaurant is dog-friendly and even has meatballs on the menu for your furry travel companion. Their gin selection at the bar is phenomenal, and the bartenders were so warm and knowledgeable.
Lunch at Toppstugan
Perched high in the mountains with panoramic views of the valley, Toppstugan was a perfect mid-day break after an active morning. The pasta I had was just what I needed to refuel. The combination of hearty comfort food and that unbelievable view is hard to top.
Dinner at Bulldog Lodge
This slope-side gem is a cozy sports bar with great food and sweeping mountain views. It’s the kind of place where you come for après-ski and end up staying for dinner (and probably dessert too). I had the Toast Skagen and their reindeer stroganoff with lingonberries—both hearty, comforting, and delicious. Their portions are huge, so come hungry! They also had a fun rhubarb drink on the menu that added a refreshing, tart contrast.
Fika at Restaurant Lyktan
After my first-ever attempt at downhill skiing, Lyktan was the perfect spot for some well-earned fika. You ride the lift up, then choose your own adventure skiing back down.
Getting There: Sälen has a small regional airport (SCR) with connections from Stockholm. You can also take a train to Mora or Malung and continue by car.
When to Visit: Winter brings skiing, dog sledding, and firelit meals. Spring introduces wild herbs and a quieter, more introspective beauty.
Dining in Dalarna was nothing like dining in the U.S.—and I mean that in the best way. There’s a simplicity and sincerity here that makes even the most elevated meals feel down-to-earth. It wasn’t just about the food (though the food was incredible); it was about the atmosphere, the people, and the sense of place. If you’re a food lover looking for your next big (but low-key) culinary adventure, don’t overlook this magical corner of Sweden.
