This tiny Caribbean island is one of the few places where you can swim with humpback whales. I went to see for myself.

I traveled to a remote island in Turks and Caicos and came face-to-face with a humpback whale that seemed just as curious about me as I was about her.

I was floating in the Caribbean Sea when an enormous humpback whale swam right up to me and looked me straight in the eye.

Her eye was about the size of a grapefruit, and as she took me in, I couldn’t shake the feeling that she was just as curious about me as I was about her. She almost seemed to be saying hello.

And I have the whole incredible encounter on video.

This happened off the coast of Salt Cay, a tiny island in Turks and Caicos, where my husband and I spent five days hoping to swim with humpback whales.

That wasn’t our only close encounter, either. On a separate swim, two humpbacks spent nearly 30 minutes circling us, coming close enough that I was both amazed and a little nervous.

Eventually, we were the ones who got cold and climbed back into the boat. The whales were still hanging around.

I’ve had some incredible wildlife encounters over the years, including coming face-to-face with mountain gorillas in Rwanda, but this experience remains one of my favorites.

It’s a completely different experience from staying on Providenciales, and I loved it. But the real attraction is what’s happening offshore.

Every winter, North Atlantic humpback whales migrate thousands of miles from their northern feeding grounds to the warmer Caribbean waters, where they mate and give birth.

Salt Cay sits near the Columbus Passage, along the whales’ migration route toward the Silver Bank near the Dominican Republic.

That puts the island right in the whales’ path. And under the right circumstances, you can get into the water with them instead of only watching from a boat.

Our captain, Richard, would scan the horizon for blows at the surface and breaches. When we spotted whales, he’d carefully position the boat and shut off the engine before deciding whether it was appropriate for us to enter the water.

Then we’d slip into the ocean with our snorkeling gear and wait.

These aren’t staged encounters. Nobody is feeding the whales or trying to lure them toward swimmers. The whales decide whether they want to interact.

Sometimes, they’ll disappear before you even get into the water. Other times, they’ll approach out of curiosity.

We were extraordinarily lucky during our trip. We saw whales every time we got into the water, and several of them came close.

Initially, having an animal that enormous swimming toward me was pretty intimidating. But watching the way they moved through the water, seemingly observing us as much as we were observing them, was fascinating.

When is the best time to visit?

The main humpback whale season around Salt Cay runs from January through March, although sightings are also possible in December and April.

I visited in late January and early February, which turned out to be excellent timing.

Still, I wouldn’t plan a trip expecting what we got.

Whales are wild animals, and there are no guarantees of seeing them, much less getting into the water with them. Weather conditions also play a major role. Rough seas can prevent boats from heading out, while poor underwater visibility can make encounters difficult even when whales are nearby.

That’s why I recommend spending several days on Salt Cay rather than trying to squeeze everything into a single excursion.

Our stay gave us multiple chances to go whale watching, with time to enjoy the island itself between trips.

How to plan a whale snorkeling trip

Salt Cay isn’t the easiest Caribbean island to reach, and that’s part of what makes visiting feel so different.

Many travelers begin their journey in Providenciales before continuing to Grand Turk and then Salt Cay. Transportation options can be limited, so it’s important to arrange your connections ahead of time.

Our flight to Salt Cay was actually canceled, and we ended up arranging a boat transfer from Grand Turk with Salt Cay Divers instead. We even saw whales during that crossing!

Once you’re on Salt Cay, accommodations are limited primarily to small guesthouses and vacation rentals rather than large resorts.

I’d recommend organizing your whale excursions before booking the rest of your trip, particularly if you’re traveling during peak season.

Our excursions ran about two and a half or three hours, with snorkeling equipment included. Salt Cay Divers also offers options for visitors staying on other islands, although you’ll want to contact them directly about the logistics.

You don’t need scuba certification for these encounters. They’re snorkeling experiences, and the company provides flotation equipment.

Follow your guide’s instructions and never chase or try to touch a whale. The Turks and Caicos Department of Environment and Coastal Resources has guidelines meant to protect both the whales and visitors.

As for packing, bring a swimsuit, sun protection, a towel, and a waterproof camera if you have one. I especially appreciated having my GoPro because it allowed me to capture the encounters without needing to do anything other than float and watch.

Is it worth making the trip to Salt Cay?

For me, absolutely.

I’ve traveled to quite a few places specifically for wildlife, and being in the ocean with animals this size is something I still think about.

But I also loved Salt Cay itself. The quiet and the lack of big resorts made it feel very different from the Turks and Caicos most visitors see.

Even without the whale sightings, I’d have enjoyed the time we spent there.

My advice is to build in several days and book with an operator that puts the whales first. They’re ultimately in charge of how it goes.

For more details about our trip, including the excursions we booked and videos of our encounters, read my complete guide to swimming with humpback whales in Turks and Caicos. I’ve also shared more things to do on Salt Cay if you’re planning to spend a few days on the island.